Bordeaux is the capital city of the Aquitaine region of France. It is also the region’s largest city. This UNESCO World Heritage site is dubbed Port of the Moon for its location on a crescent-shaped bend in the river Garonne. The Bordeaux wine region surrounds the city and is the largest wine growing area in France. Its success is largely due to its location. The climate is influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and the Pyrenees Mountains and the soil is near ideal for viticulture. Its well-regarded wines are copied around the world and are an especially heavy influence on wines of the new world (Southern Hemisphere and the Americas). Bordeaux wines are typically cabernet sauvignon and merlot blends that often include supporting grapes to round them out. The area produces wines ranging from table to trophy.
Bordeaux wine is bound by AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée) regulations regarding details such as maximum alcohol by volume, irrigation, maximum yield, and residual sugars. French AOC regulations are also in place for products such as cheese, butter, lavender, honey, and spirits.
In January of 2021, 6 additional grape varieties were approved for limited use in Bordeaux by the INAO (Institut national de l'origine et de la qualité), the regulatory organization for agriculture products in France. The restrictions on these grapes include which appellations may use them (no major appellations at this point), amount planted in each vineyard (max 5%), and amount allowed in the blend (max 10%). It is unusual for additional grapes to be allowed or restrictions to change for wines in this area. These varieties were approved in light of climate change. There were 14 approved grape varieties already in use, 6 reds and 8 whites. With the new approvals, there are 20 in total, 10 reds and 10 whites. The recent additions are marked with *. The reds are cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec, carménère, petit verdot, arinarnoa*, castets*, marselan*, and touriga nacional*. The whites are sémillon, sauvignon blanc, sauvignon gris, muscadelle, colombard, ugni blanc, merlot blanc, mauzac, alvarinho*, and liliorila*.
Cabernet sauvignon is a red grape that brings structure to a wine. Its tannic skins and rich profile make it a perfect blending partner for the softer and fruitier merlot. It is capable of extended aging. Although grown worldwide, it is hard to find a better expression of cab than the full-bodied, firmly acidic wines from Margaux, Saint-Estèphe, and Pauillac.
Merlot, with its plush texture and velvety tannins, brings elegance to cabernet’s intensity. Nowhere does this combination show better than in the wines of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol.
Cabernet franc is an intense dark red grape that is primarily used as a supporting grape in cab and merlot blends. It is a parent grape to both cabernet sauvignon and merlot so it makes sense that it would blend well with them. It brings currant and herbal characteristics, has a medium body, and is lighter in tannins and higher in acidity than many big reds. It is heavily featured in a few blends in Saint-Émilion, such as Château Cheval Blanc.
Petit verdot is a tannic red that adds deep beautiful color and rigid structure to a blend. It has dark berry characteristics that work well with cab and merlot.
Malbec produces a beautifully intense dark wine and can add both tart and savory notes to a blend.
Carménère is reminiscent of merlot but with a delicious peppery kick. Like cabernet sauvignon and merlot, it is an offspring of cabernet franc. It is not used as often as I’d like in Bordeaux blends.
Marselan, a cross between grenache noir and cabernet sauvignon, can add rich color, tannins, and body to a blend.
Touriga Nacional can add structure to a blend with its full body and high tannins. It is resistant to many growing plights of more sensitive grapes and can age well.
Castets is lower in acidity and can produce a wine higher in alcohol than many of the grapes on this list and that can be useful in a blend. It’s a fairly hearty variety in regard to mildew, which is good for this wine growing area near a coast and rivers.
Arinarnoa is an offspring of cabernet sauvignon that was developed in 1956 by INRA (Institut national de la recherche agronomique). It is hearty in regard to rot and a late bloomer which protects it against spring frosts.
Sauvignon blanc is a versatile white that grows well in a variety of climates. In Graves, it blends amazingly well with sémillon and adds crisp citrus and herbs to the blend. It pairs well with many foods and, for this reason, I always keep a white Bordeaux on hand. It is also used in the sweet wines of Sauternes. If you haven’t had a Sauternes, that’s next on your list.
Sémillon brings body and a waxy sort of texture to balance the acidic and crisp sauvignon blanc in both dry and sweet wine blends. Its floral and stone fruit characteristics further broaden the spectrum.
Muscadelle is a bit difficult to grow since it is sensitive to disease. Because of its intense floral characteristics, it is generally used sparingly in Bordeaux blends.
Sauvignon gris is a mutation of sauvignon blanc and can add full texture to a blend. It’s an early ripener which is useful in cooler growing seasons.
Colombard is a versatile and neutral white. It adds acidity to a blend, which also brings a crisp tartness.
Ugni blanc (also known as Trebbiano) is an acidic white variety that is resistant to disease so it grows well near the water.
Merlot blanc is a fairly neutral wine with a faint raspberry aroma. It ripens early and is a consistent grower.
Mauzac is a late-ripening white that can add acidity to a blend.
Alvarinho has strong characteristics that add complexity to blends and should be helpful in cooler growing seasons that could dampen other varieties’ aromas and flavors.
Liliorila is an offspring of chardonnay that was developed in 1956 by INRA. It can be quite aromatic and should be a useful tool in adding complexity to blends.
I am interested to see how these newly-approved grapes will weave in with the current varieties for future wines of Bordeaux. I think we might see further regulation tweaks with possible expansion on the usage of these grapes. On the subject of regulations, grape varieties other than the above 20 may be and are grown and processed in the boundaries of the Bordeaux wine growing region, but they are labeled as a Vin de France since they don’t meet AOC regulations for a Bordeaux wine. With so many grape varieties and blending options, there surely is a Bordeaux wine for every palate.
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