Is bourbon a whiskey or is whiskey a bourbon? Where does scotch fall in the family tree? Are they even related? Wonder if you would prefer corn, barley, rye, or wheated whisky? Notice I’m alternating the whiskey/whisky spelling? There is ample room for confusion in the world of whiskey. This series of three articles will outline subcategories of whisky, teach ordering terminology, and show how and why the chosen and/or regulated processing differences affect characteristics of finished products.
Whisky or whiskey? The spelling is not regulated. It depends on the country’s preference and tradition. There is a long history of the two spellings being used to distinguish a country’s products from the competition (Scotland vs. Ireland), or for a country to try to establish an association to an existing product (US chose the Irish with ’e’ spelling), or sometimes a simple misprint in a document of regulation drives a distillery's labeling choices. Although each country uses both spellings, the majority of the United States and Ireland include the ‘e’ and other countries generally do not. Quick way to remember: countries spelled with an ‘e’ use the ‘e’. When speaking of one country, I will use the most popular spelling for that country. When speaking broadly, I will alternate spellings. By the way, the plural of whiskey is whiskeys and the plural of whisky is whiskies.
Whisky is a category of alcohol made from various grains that are fermented and distilled and typically aged in wooden barrels. There are numerous subcategories which must adhere to different regulations in order to use certain names such as scotch or bourbon. They vary greatly in taste and aroma according to which grains are used, the processing equipment and routine, the aging time and types of barrels, and possible allowed additives. Starting with American whiskeys, let’s go.
Bourbon whiskey (often just called bourbon) must contain a minimum of 51% corn, but usually contains more, and must be aged in new charred oak barrels. This means the barrels are only used one time and heavily impart the characteristics of wood and charring into the liquid. The high corn content generally provides a sweeter and smoother finished product as compared to other cereal grains. The Federal Standards of Identity for bourbon state it may be made anywhere in the US, but approximately 95% is made in Kentucky. Point of interest: The name bourbon refers to the area of Old Bourbon in Kentucky, which is present-day Bourbon County. As required of all American whiskeys, a minimum of 2 years aging is needed to allow use of the term straight bourbon.
Wheated bourbons use wheat as one of the grains after the required minimum 51% corn. I think wheat stands up well to extended aging and the flavor is milder than the rye usually in its place. These milder flavors mean more of the sweetness from the corn and the characteristics from the barrel can shine through. Pappy Van Winkle is probably the most famous. If you find yourself in the mindset to spend $2500 on a top-shelf bottle, take a look at the Old Rip 25 below.
Tennessee whiskey qualifies as bourbon whiskey, which is a subcategory of whiskey. Make no mistake, they would rather not be called a bourbon but prefer to distinguish themselves from bourbon whiskey, which is closely tied to Kentucky. This is less a rivalry and more about presenting a different product. However, they do adhere to the regulations of and fit neatly into the bourbon category. Here's the difference. In addition, there are two more regulations required to step from a bourbon to a Tennessee whiskey. It must be produced in the state of Tennessee (bourbon can be produced in any of the US states) and, unless grandfathered into the 2013 law, it must use the Lincoln County Process of filtration through sugar maple charcoal. The rest of the process of Tennessee whiskey is identical to bourbon whiskey. Point of interest: Lincoln County Process received its name from Lincoln County, Tennessee, which was the original home of the Jack Daniels Distillery (which has since moved to neighboring Moore County to accommodate local laws). This is my favorite subcategory of American whiskey.
Corn whiskey must contain a minimum of 80% corn, which tends toward a very sweet profile. It is generally not aged, or aged in uncharred or used barrels to avoid the added flavors and colors. Corn whiskey is fairly light in color and usually bottled as legal moonshine (meaning taxed).
Malt whiskey must contain a minimum of 51% malted (partially germinated) barley. Malting the grain adds a nutty toasty cereal element.
Rye whiskey must contain a minimum of 51% rye and tends toward a spicy profile, which works well in mixed drinks or cocktails that include sweet ingredients. American rye can be made anywhere in the US. I’m emphasizing that rye whiskey is underappreciated and a sweet mixed drink or cocktail will be improved by subbing in rye whiskey for a sweeter one.
Rye malt whiskey must contain a minimum of 51% malted rye. Best of both worlds with spice and toast.
Wheat whiskey must contain a minimum of 51% wheat. This is different from wheated bourbon that still must contain minimum 51% corn and then some wheat. Again though, wheat stands up well to aging and has a mild flavor that often smacks of honey, especially if the oak imparts vanilla. Delicious.
The above types of American whiskey must not be distilled to over 80% abv and may not be barreled at more than 125 proof. Water is the only additive allowed. Except for corn whiskey, they must be aged in new charred oak. There is no required minimum aging time, but if aged for at least two years, it is designated as a straight whiskey (which confuses ordering since ordering a straight whiskey does not refer to aging time).
Blended whiskey contains a blend of whiskeys and is allowed to contain some neutral grain spirits, flavoring, and coloring additives.
Light whiskey is produced at more than 80% alcohol by volume (abv) and stored in used or uncharred new oak containers. 'Light’ refers to color and not abv, which is generally high.
Spirit whiskey need only contain a minimum of 5% of a recognized whiskey category. The rest may be neutral spirits.
Cask strength (barrel proof) whiskies are bottled from the cask either undiluted or only lightly diluted making them a higher abv.
Single cask (single barrel) whiskies are bottled from an individual cask. Since casks, even in the same batch, will vary in characteristics, the bottles are labeled with the cask number.
Japanese whisky is fairly new (first distillery 1924) and was mostly unregulated until last year, yet it tends to have high standards. It was created to emulate the style of scotch and uses similar distilling methods and contains malted barley. Japanese whisky has been greatly overlooked until 2001, when a Japanese whisky won Whisky Magazine’s “Best of the Best”. As expected, this caused shortages due to increased demand.
Irish whiskey is made from malted barley but can contain other grains, can only be distilled using water and caramel coloring, and must be aged in wood for a minimum of three years. The result is a smooth sipper.
Canadian whisky must be produced and aged in Canada, distilled from fermented cereal grains, aged in wood for a minimum of three years. Canadian whisky and Canadian rye whisky do not have different legal requirements for percentages of specific grains. They can, and often do, contain caramel coloring and flavoring, which makes them lighter and sweeter and a good choice for those new to whisky.
Scotch whisky (often just called scotch) is made in Scotland under rigid regulations. Made primarily with malted barley, it must age in oak for a minimum of three years and the age statement of the youngest whisky in the blend must be included on the label. Contrary to its reputation, not all scotch is smoky. Smoke from burning peat to dry the barley is optional.
Single malts scotch whiskies are produced at a single distillery using only water and malted barley.
Blended malt whisky is a mixture of single malt whiskies from different distilleries and are more difficult to make as a blend master is required to test and create the blend. The blending smoothes the gaps in a single malt often making an easier-drinking and more well-balanced finished product.
Areas of Scotland and associated styles of whisky
Speyside: sweet, vanilla, oak, baking spices, light peat
Islay: heavy peat, perhaps a bit fishy or salty, intense
Highland: fruity, mildly smoky
Lowland: sweet, simple, toasty
Cambletown: smoky, salty, sweet (only three producers)
Mexico has recently (2013) entered the market, and its use of ancestral Mexican corn causes me to recommend it as a must-taste. India, Germany, Australia, and many other countries produce whiskies, but this primer is a good place to begin a whisky journey.
Up next: How to order whiskey to ensure you are served something you love.
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